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Friday, November 19, 2010

SGN-R Series Blasters - R3L Overview!

After months of building and testing dozens of designs, the SGN-R3L Blaster is finally completed!

This is part of a series of DIY blasters i plan to build, so the naming conventions i will use from here on will be as follows:

"SGN" is the maker's ID
"R" is the series name.
"3" indicates the plunger internal diameter (which is 30mm).
"L" indicates the version's length (in this case, the "Long" variant).

Development credits go to all the DIY blaster builders at the various popular Nerf forums. Majority of the R Series blaster component designs are based on and inspired by the popular blaster designs such as the +Bow design by CaptainSlug and SNAP design by Carbon.

Okay, here are the objectives of the R Series blaster design:

- Parts all made with easy-to-source DIY materials
- Minimal tool requirement and working time
- Simple to build PVC pipe frame and parts (like SNAP designs)
- Secure catch plate and trigger system (like +Bow designs)
- Modular setup (able to be customize easily and quickly)
- Maximum priming draw (as ergonomically possible)
- Reliable and consistent firing performance
- Easy to transport and carry

Lets start:

SGN-R3L - Fully Assembled

The R3L is a hybrid DIY blaster, it strives to combine the simplicity of the SNAP blaster designs with the secure catch system of the +Bow designs.

This is the result...



The R3L unit shown above is equipped with a brass barrel slide breech attachment. With suitable couplers, any barrel attachments (ie. speed-loaders, rscb clips, hopper clips etc) can also be used too.


SGN-R3L - Main Blaster Unit

The R3L main blaster unit is fully built with PVC pipes.

I used locally sourced 13mm, 16mm and 20mm spec PVC pipes (Brand: SingaPlastics) which nest perfectly within each other to create the individual components, along with joints, couplers and reducers to scale down from larger diameter pipes.

In the R3L, 30mm spec PVC pipe was used for the plunger tube (slightly narrower diameter to +Bow plungers).




SGN-R3L - Modular Setup

The majority of components in the R3L are bolted together with machine screws, no glue is used to join sections.

Since machine screws are used to secure the frame and parts, the blaster can be easily modified and customized anytime, and the parts can be swapped around quickly. This helps to facilitate easy replacement and upgrading of parts.




SGN-R3L - PVC Pipe Catch Ring Design

This is the "heart" of the R Series design.

I wanted a catch system which could emulate the catch plate design that is commonly used in blasters such as the +Bow and in most spring plunger powered Nerf blasters.

But catch plate designs have traditionally been rather time consuming to make, with popular methods so far involving the use of specialized tools to do the cutting, shaping and tapping of polycarbonate sheets to make the multiple parts, along with specific screws and bolt setups.

On the other hand, the SNAP catch design of a trimmed metal rod and a clothes pin to form the catch, trigger and return spring is the epitome of simplicity, its so easy and quick to build, and it can work well in many blaster designs too. But the trade-off is that its naturally not as strong or durable as the catch-plate system.

So i tinkered with many designs, focusing on just using PVC pipe materials... and finally arrived at the PVC pipe catch ring design.



The design is inspired by the recent "Rainbow" design by Stark and "Mod Mans End Cap Catch Plate" design by Mod Man. The difference is i utilize only PVC pipe material for the entire catch system (no polycarbonate required).

The catch mechanism consists of a spring loaded 16mm PVC catch ring (positioned between 2 additional fixed ring sections for proper alignment) which sleeves over the 13mm PVC plunger rod. The plunger rod has a notch in it which will catch when the blaster is primed.

The entire catch assembly sits inside a 20mm PVC T-joint that is hollowed out to fit the parts. As you can see, this catch and trigger assembly is a completely modular set and can be easily swapped with other plunger and shoulder stock configurations easily.

The trigger is a metal L-bracket which operates on a simple pivot system, it links with the catch system via a cut-out slot in the trigger handle (the slot acts as a fulcrum point for the trigger). There is a return spring under the trigger with a bolt to position it properly. I wrapped the metal L-bracket in a rubber sleeve for better grip and comfort.

Pull the trigger and it pivots in an upward motion to push up the spring loaded catch ring, thereby releasing the plunger rod and firing the blaster.


SGN-R3L - Maximum Priming Draw

Another feature i wanted to achieve was to build a blaster with the maximum priming draw that i could still physically use.

Longer priming draw = More air volume = More power.

I chose to use the pull-back priming rod method as it was the simplest and most common design to build, but that also means that a longer priming draw would naturally increase the overall blaster length, and result in the trigger handle being positioned further away from the user.

After much trial and error, i managed to get the priming draw to a full 9" (+Bow priming draw is 6.5").

The 9" priming draw is almost at the limits of comfortable shoulder aiming for me (and i'm 6ft tall), any longer and i might have abit of trouble reaching the trigger handle! :)

Further pushing my arm reach limits, i made a proper full-length shoulder stock with a cheek rest (as you can see in the photos), so the result is a very long blaster...



Plunger Draw = approx. 22 cm / 9 inches.
SGN-R3L (with slide breech) = approx. 135 cm / 53 inches.


SGN-R3L - Folding Shoulder Stock

As some of you sharp eyed readers may notice, everything is machine screwed together except for the joint between the trigger handle and the shoulder stock. That is so that i can fold the shoulder stock to the right or left for easier storage and transportation.



Yes, the blaster could also be used with the shoulder stock folded, but great care will have to be taken to avoid getting cheeks or fingers clipped when the priming handle propels forward at high velocity.


SGN-R3L - Disassemble Sections

For transportation and storage, the blaster can also be taken apart in sections to be packed flat.



Here is an example of it in a protection case with layers of foam padding.




SGN-R3L - Scale Comparison with Nerf Longshot
(Without barrel attachments)

How does the R3L compare in size to other blasters?

Well, here is a scale comparison with a Nerf Longshot.




SGN-R3L - Scale Comparison with +Bow
(Without barrel attachments)

And here is a scale comparison with a +Bow.




SGN-R3L - Catch & Trigger Comparison with +Bow

This is an interesting comparison, the R3L and +Bow catch systems compared side-by-side.




SGN-R3L - Spring Plunger Internals

Standard SNAP style plunger head and rod layout using 13mm PVC pipe, end cap and T-joint. The plunger head is a rubber gasket originally designed for plumbing works, fits the 30mm spec pipe plunger perfectly with 100% air seal.

Note that the plunger head and rod are all attached together with machine screws too, so they can be replaced or upgraded easily.

The spring i use for the R3L is a custom ordered 11.5" length 14kg load aftermarket spring.



The R3L also has air channels drilled behind the plunger tube.



This helps to counteract the vacuum that forms when the plunger head propels forward, very important for maintaining the plunger velocity, especially in large plunger tube designs.


SGN-R3L - PVC Pipe Catch Ring Internals

Here is an "exploded" view of the catch ring internals, displaying all the parts in the assembly.




SGN-R3L - Trigger & Catch Ring Assembly

The L-bracket trigger shown here is assembled outside of the trigger handle for easier reference, you can see how the parts are attached together. Notice the spring in the front bolt? Thats the return spring to keep the trigger away from the catch when at rest. Notice also that the bolt and nut on the inside of the trigger handle are installed with washers to allow for finer adjustments in trigger pivot reach.

The catch ring consists of a section of 16mm pipe connected to a half-threaded screw with a catch spring, and everything is held down by a catch "bridge" made from a section of pvc pipe. Again, washers are also installed to help fine tune the spring load for the catch.



For build reference, here is a cross-section schematics of my SGN-R Series Pipe Catch Ring & Trigger Design:



Click on the picture to access a larger version.


SGN-R Series Blasters - R3L Demo Video

This video will provide a demonstration of how it works.




:: Sample Test Fire Data ::

PTG: Parallel-To-Ground (Shoulder height, no elevation)
ATG: Angled-To-Ground (Aimed higher, 30 degrees elevation)

Shots fired from 1ft length Brass Barrel Slide Breech.
Distance is measured at where the foam dart lands (Average of 6 shots).

SGN-R3L Blaster
PTG = 140 ft
ATG = 155 ft

Note: The tests were done under controlled conditions with custom calibrated foam darts.


- Notes -

Overall, i'm quite happy with how the design turned out and i'll be building more blaster variants based on the R Series design.

Stay tuned! :)

45 comments:

  1. Absolutely fantastic. I love the trigger/catch setup, cheap, easy, incredibly effective. Thanks a million Sg

    ReplyDelete
  2. Good job! I was thinking of a similar design a few weeks ago, but never got around to actually testing it out...

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  3. will you be selling these? i would buy for 120 us dollars

    ReplyDelete
  4. Can you please make a full tutorial on how to make this?

    ReplyDelete
  5. I would also appreciate some kind of tutorial. Written directions or a PDF perhaps. Might be a decent business model to sell the instructions for 5 bucks of something. I would pay for it!

    ReplyDelete
  6. superturtleshell & Ryan,

    You can find all the tutorials on how to make basic SNAP design blasters using PVC pipes at the NerfHaven forum. Here is a direct link to Carbon's original SNAP build thread:

    http://nerfhaven.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=5767

    There are plenty more SNAP tutorials that have been posted up over the past few years, just search for "SNAP" and the maker "Carbon".

    The main difference in the design is my new catch ring and trigger system, i have updated the overview with a cross-section schematics of my mechanism designs.

    ReplyDelete
  7. Whoah. You've honestly outdone yourself SG Nerf! From the early days at the old original forums to making your name known throughout the International Nerf Community. Hats go off to you sir. I'll attempt this during the Hols. Really, this is genius in my opinion :) Keep going!
    -XRebirthX

    ReplyDelete
  8. hey sgnerf great blaster it is awesome I am modding lots of guns an possibly making this blaster but i dont know where to get pvc from i also live in SG

    ReplyDelete
  9. hamza,

    Check at the NerfSG forum, all the links on where to get modding materials locally have already been posted and discussed there.

    ReplyDelete
  10. Hey,

    I Pmed you over at the Haven about this, but I'm not sure if you're responding to/checking PMs right now (I know that we talked earlier this week over PMs, but you're a busy person, so you never know...:)). I don't mean to seem/sound naggy-I just need to know what I need to build this blaster, since I'm going to the hardware store sometime this week (or weekend), and I need to copmile a list of everything I need to buy.

    Anyway, I have a question about what you mean when you say " none of the parts should be loose or free standing, any wiggle room will cause problems with proper catching and alignment." (You mentioned this in an earlier PM)
    How snug of a fit do I need? For comparison, would a fit like 17/32" brass inside 9/16" brass be OK?

    Thanks!

    ReplyDelete
  11. Jesse,

    Yes, a perfect nested fit similar to a 17/32" in 9/16" brass tube setup is an ideal reference example. You should get that kind of nested fit with the PVC pipes you use for the plunger rod and catch ring. To enable even smoother plunger movement, apply a thin layer of plastic-safe grease at the various catch components that are in contact with the plunger rod.

    ReplyDelete
  12. K,

    You could just make one on your own. :)

    ReplyDelete
  13. Does it matter how wide the catch piece is?
    Thanks.

    ReplyDelete
  14. Jesse,

    Well, the catch ring just has to have the right dimensions to sleeve around the plunger rod.

    I use a series of PVC pipes which nest within each other perfectly, and they form the basis of all my R-Series blaster designs.

    ReplyDelete
  15. hey,
    sg nerf
    thanks a found pvc piping I really want to build this but it is a bit too complected so i am probably going to make it piece by piece after a few months. If you could make a tutorial or right up whith images that would be great

    ReplyDelete
  16. hamza,

    You can refer to the "SNAP" blaster design threads posted by other modders at the NerfHaven forum to get the basic ideas on how to build spring powered DIY blasters using PVC pipes.

    As for my Pipe Catch Ring & Trigger design, i've already shown it in the overview along with an "exploded" view of the parts as well as cut-away schematics.

    I would advise you to start building the basic "SNAP" blaster designs first, then you will start to fully understand how everything works.

    ReplyDelete
  17. SGNerf,

    I'e got the catch assembly all assembled and working, but I just have a few minor questions...

    When I said "does it matter how wide the catch piece is?", I meant the "length" of the pipe, not the ID.

    Also, did you have to, for the trigger assembly, stick the bracket inside the slot, then take OUT the catch, put the screw for the trigger in through the hole in the top (which was originally cut for the catch), and the put the catch back in?

    Thanks!

    ReplyDelete
  18. Jesse,

    Okay, if you are referring to the length of the catch ring, i'm currently using just 1cm length of the PVC pipe as the catch ring. So far, it has been working perfectly so i guess that could be a guide.

    As for putting together the trigger assembly, the steps you mentioned is correct. The trigger has to be slotted into the T-joint and the bolts have to be installed first before the rest of the catch can be installed on top of them.

    ReplyDelete
  19. I want to build this, but I have no direction. I looked at the SNAP designs, and I understand the concept, but it's some of the details that I am having difficulties with. I'm not much of a craftsmen so looking at these aren't helping me. :/

    ReplyDelete
  20. Kevin,

    Very few people can look at photos and schematics and instantly understand everything.

    You have to physically start building the basic designs, then you will start to understand how all the parts actually work together.

    Once you gain the experience, then you can progress on to the more advanced designs.

    ReplyDelete
  21. Ah, the answer I was afraid of. Unless I can find someone locally with a wealth of knowledge on this topic, it is hopeless without experience. I suppose that is where I must start.

    Were you referring to some of the basic SNAP designs, and if so could you direct me to a good starting place?

    Also, I didn't mention this before but that is a sexy gun :)

    ReplyDelete
  22. Kevin,

    You can find many tutorials on how to make basic SNAP design blasters using PVC pipes at the NerfHaven forum.

    Here is a direct link to Carbon's original SNAP build thread:

    http://nerfhaven.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=5767

    There are plenty more SNAP tutorials that have been posted up over the past few years, just search for "SNAP" and the maker "Carbon" at the NerfHaven forum.

    ReplyDelete
  23. SG Nerf,
    Great design! I love how it's made pretty much just from PVC. I am looking forward to making one for myself, but am wondering, how did you make your plunger head? All the designs that I have seen all need a solid plunger rod. How did you make yours with a PVC plunger rod?

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  24. Nerf Doctor,

    I simply use a PVC pipe with a PVC end cap attached, then bolt on a suitable sized rubber gasket to create the plunger head.

    ReplyDelete
  25. Great design SG Nerf, I'm inspired to make one myself. But when you say 13mm or 30mm, do you mean the inner or outer diameter of the pipe?

    ReplyDelete
  26. quang_parkour,

    The pipe labels i mention in this overview refer to the printed labels on the particular PVC pipe brand (SingaPlastics), they indicate the approx. internal diameters (ID) of the pipes.

    But do note that the actual pipe measurements are not exactly as labelled (due to variations in the wall thickness), and different brand PVC pipes have different specs and measurements.

    The key to this design are PVC pipes that can nest/slot perfectly within each other. So any brand of PVC pipes that have those characteristics can be used in this design.

    ReplyDelete
  27. I am building the same thing but what ever i try to make the catch the screw gets in the way and i have tried to epoxy it but that broke to what do i use

    ReplyDelete
  28. Matt,

    If you are referring to the catch screw with black spring in my example, you can increase the thickness of the catch ring by cutting another small quarter ring section of PVC pipe and epoxy gluing it on top of the catch ring, then you'll have a thicker ring section to mount the catch screw more securely.

    ReplyDelete
  29. Would you happen to sell and send springs that you use for the R3L or if not do you still have the link or contact details of the supplier?
    Thanks :)

    ReplyDelete
  30. quang23,

    Send me a PM about it at the NerfSG forum.

    ReplyDelete
  31. Could you tell me where you get your springs? And are they available in Canada? What are the specs (pressure, ID, OD, etc...)?
    Thanks! (like a lot!) :)

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. VinceTibo,

      My springs are custom made so they wouldn't be readily available on stores.

      The customized springs i made are approx. 14kg load (based on the amount of weight/effort required to compress them fully), OD is approx. 27mm, ID is approx. 25mm, length is around 11.5".

      I guess you could shop around at the hardware stores around your area to find similar springs, or just get them custom made at industrial spring manufacturers.

      Delete
  32. nice! does it require a barrel extension to fire or can it fire nerf darts similar to how a jolt/nite finder does?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Wilks,

      These type of blaster designs require the use of a separate barrel attachment to fire foam darts, they are designed to be modular.

      Delete
  33. Can you make an attachment so you can shoot out water?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Anonymous,

      Possible... as simple method is to just drill a small hole (or series of small holes for a "shower effect") into a PVC end cap, then attach it to the barrel attachment point. Dip the front portion into a bucket of water and prime it, this draws the water in, then you've got a water blaster.

      Some modders have tried that for fun and it works. :)

      Delete
  34. I have no experience whatsoever and I would probably waste a lot of time and money trying to make this. I've already seen that you said you don't sell these, but do you know anyone in the U.S that can make this for me?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Anonymous,

      Check at the NerfHaven forum, there should be some modders over there from the States who might be able to make them on contract or commission basis.

      Delete
  35. Why don't you sell blisters like these? You'd make a fortune!

    ReplyDelete
  36. If your looking for inspiration, since I don't have much technical magic, just ideas, have you ever thought of making a gun where the cocking lever and plunger tubes are turnered around, and a pipe takes the air and turns it around into a barrel on top? This could well cut the length in half, while (possible) giving the same power. Just food for thought, as I am not a genius, or a millionaire so I can't test this out...

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Magnus,

      Yup, i've also tried that reverse layout before too, you can see an example of it at the SGN-R1 preview which i posted up a while back (the last photo):

      http://diyblasters.blogspot.com/2010/04/sgn-r1-preview.html

      Other builders have also come up with more improvements on the reversed layout since, some have incorporated pulleys to allow the system to use a shotgun grip system too, here is a recent example:

      http://nerfhaven.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=22761

      Delete
  37. Where do I get the plunger head and rod?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Anonymous,

      The plunger head is just a rubber washer/grommet from hardware shops (just shop around to find suitable sized ones)... the plunger rod and assembly i use are made out of 13mm SingaPlastics PVC pipes, end-caps and T-joints.

      if you are new to building custom blasters, do start with building the basic SNAP blasters first, then you'll have a much better idea of how they work, the build process and materials.

      Delete
  38. Where do you get the 14KG spring?? I've gone on the SGnerf forum and found nowhere a link to where I can buy it. Can you help me out???

    ReplyDelete