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Thursday, April 28, 2011

SGN-R Series Blasters - PAR55M Overview!

Introducing the SGN-PAR55M!

Model name description:

"SGN" is the maker's ID.
"PA" denotes pump-action system.
"R" is the series name.
"55" indicates the plunger internal diameter (55mm).
"M" indicates the version's length (in this case, the "Medium" variant).

As mentioned in my SGN-R3L overview, many of the R-Series blaster component designs are based on and inspired by the popular blaster designs such as the +Bow by CaptainSlug, SNAP by Carbon, Rainbow by Stark and Mod Mans End Cap Catch Plate by Mod Man.

In addition, for this particular R-Series variant, inspiration for the pump-action system also comes from the excellent Rainbowpump by Ryan201821.

For those new to such blaster concepts, do read up on how the various designs work by clicking on the highlighted info links. :)

As an evolution of the SGN-R3L, here are the additional objectives of my SGN-PAR55M design:

- Frame and parts still made only using PVC pipes & joints.
- Still requires only minimal tools and working time.
- Use the same modular PVC catch ring and trigger system.
- Larger plunger air volume.
- More compact and ergonomic form factor.
- Fully integrated pump action system.


SGN-PAR55M - Introduction



The PAR55M is based on a 55mm ID plunger tube with 6" plunger draw. It uses a 7" length 14kg load aftermarket spring. The Catch Ring & Trigger mechanism is the same as in the R3L design.

The pump-action grip is a single piece custom shaped pipe section linked to the plunger rod via a series of priming slots.

Here is an initial comparison between the PAR55M & R3L:



Note: The R3L shown above is a special "Black C/F Skin" exterior design variant. :)

Plunger air volume comparison (approx.):

R3L (3.0cm ID plunger tube + 22cm/9" draw) = 155 cubic cm
PAR55M (5.5cm ID plunger tube + 15cm/6" draw) = 356 cubic cm


SGN-PAR55M - Pump Action System

The system starts with a basic plunger head build.

In my example i simply cut a circle out of a thick rubber sheet to match the 55mm ID of the plunger tube (i had to do a few test fitments with some trial & error to get the ideal circle dimensions), then sandwiched the rubber circle within 2 pieces of plastic discs (any other suitable disc shaped materials can also be used).



Its best to use rubber material which is thick and rigid enough not to fold when under pressure, this ensures there is no air leakage during usage.

The plunger head is bolted securely onto the plunger rod and end cap with a large screw.

Yes... i know, many expert blaster builders will bemoan my use of such a rudimentary plunger head setup, it definitely isn't as sophisticated as the skirt seal plunger heads seen on other blaster designs. It was actually intended to be just a quick setup for testing purposes, but surprisingly it could still achieve 100% air seal and optimal performance with this simple plunger head configuration, so i decided to just stick with it for simplicity (watch the demo video below to check out the air seal performance). :)

To create the pump action system, i cut guide slots into a length of 20mm PVC pipe at the shoulder stock section. I used a Dremel with a cutting bit for wood/pvc (metal disc with serrated edges) to cut the slots.



The slot length is around 15cm (approx. 6") to match my intended plunger draw. The slot height is around 5mm, to accommodate the bolt that will be used for the priming bar.

A pair of matching slots is also cut into the 13mm PVC plunger rod to facilitate the linkages within the pump action system.



The measurements on the cut-out slots have to be accurate and aligned correctly. Just take your time and measure everything properly beforehand. With abit of steady cutting and patience, its quite a straightforward task to accomplish.

Next step...

Remember the modular PVC Pipe Catch Ring & Trigger component from the SGN-R3L? If you have already built a set, then most of your work is already done! Simply take your existing catch & trigger component and just connect it up to the shoulder stock design of your choice.

The advantage of these modular components is that you can just swap them around or replace them easily. :)

If you've not built your modular PVC pipe catch & trigger component yet, then just refer to the SGN-R3L overview to see how its made.



Assemble the plunger tube. I use a section of 55mm ID PVC pipe with matching front and rear pipe reducers. The plunger rod and spring are positioned inside the plunger tube.

The pipe reducers are secured with counter-sunk machine screws, this is so that the pump grip can slide over the reducers without getting blocked by any protruding screw heads.

Notice also in the above photo... other than the catch, trigger and reducer sections, there are no machine screws securing the rest of the pipes and joints?

I discovered that with this design, most of the pipe parts are connected in a set and are not load bearing sections, so the entire blaster can work perfectly even when those sections are not bolted together. This also helps to facilitate easier and quicker swapping of parts.

To assemble it, simply pull the trigger (to open the catch), then connect the plunger tube/rod section and the catch/trigger/shoulder stock section together. Note how the plunger rod slots are aligned with the shoulder stock slots.



With this modular assembly method, both the front and rear section can also be easily detached by just pulling them apart for maintainence or transportation, no tools required. :)

The large plunger volume will generate alot more vacuum draw behind the plunger head when it propels forward during firing, so make sure there are enough air relief holes drilled into the rear reducer to offset the vacuum draw (if air relief holes are not done or insufficient, the vacuum draw will slow down or even stop the plunger from moving forward).



Next, we'll now proceed on to the pump grip.



In my example, i used a section of 70mm ID PVC pipe, this particular pipe size fits smoothly over the front & rear reducers i used, therefore perfect for use as the pump grip.

Do a test fit and match the grip length required, then cut out the shape (length will depend on the overall dimensions of your particular pipes and joints).



The pump grip is sleeved over the reducers and secured to the plunger rod via a long carriage bolt and nut threaded though the shoulder stock and plunger rod slots.



The grip section can be easily detached anytime by simply unscrewing the bolt.

Make sure the pump grip is able to move smoothly back and forth. Some additional trimming on the slots or parts in contact may be required to fine tune the fitment.



Its done!

The pump action grip also acts as a kind of blaster casing cover for the PAR55M, giving it a sort of "carapace" shell casing. Makes the design look abit more cohesive. :)


SGN-PAR55M - Operation/Attachments/Comparisons

Here is how the pump action system works:



There are various barrel attachment options that can be fitted, i have successfully tested and used it in Nerf games with brass barrel slide breeches, hopper clips and spring-assisted chopper clips (shown from top to bottom of photo).



Here are some scale comparisons with other blasters...

PAR55M & R3L




PAR55M & +Bow




PAR55M & Nerf Longshot




PAR55M & Nerf Swarmfire



Notice the slight similarity in "shape"... that contributed a little bit to the PAR55M design idea too. :)


SGN-R Series Blasters - PAR55M Demo Video

This video will provide a demonstration of how it works.




:: Sample Test Fire Data ::

PTG: Parallel-To-Ground (Shoulder height, no elevation)
ATG: Angled-To-Ground (Aimed higher, 30 degrees elevation)

Distance is measured at where the foam dart lands (Average of 6 shots).

SGN-PAR55M Blaster (1ft length Brass Barrel Slide Breech)
PTG = 140 ft
ATG = 155 ft

SGN-PAR55M Blaster (1ft length Brass Barrel Hopper/Chopper Clip)
PTG = 110 ft
ATG = 125 ft

Note: The tests were done under controlled conditions with custom calibrated foam darts.

47 comments:

  1. Nice, and very elegant.

    Out of curiosity, how long was the slide breech barrel you used?

    ReplyDelete
  2. W,

    Thanks!

    The brass barrels in the slide breeches and hopper/chopper clips are also 1ft length barrels, same as the ones i use for the R3L too. :)

    I've updated my overview to reflect the barrel lengths.

    ReplyDelete
  3. Woooooooooooooow how long did it take to make, you should mass produce them and sell, this is EYE CANDY

    ReplyDelete
  4. Yo SG Nerf, long time no chat. Anyway, do you take commissions to make these? :D

    ReplyDelete
  5. DasaMan,

    Nope, i don't make blasters for sale. :)

    ReplyDelete
  6. Garrett1999,

    As mentioned in my earlier comment, i don't make blasters for sale.

    ReplyDelete
  7. george,

    It basically uses the same parts as the SGN-R3L... main difference is just a larger plunger tube, pump grip and a shorter main spring. :)

    ReplyDelete
  8. Wow. You are so awesome at homemades!

    ReplyDelete
  9. Very impressive !!! When I saw the brass barrel hopper clip I remembered about the american calico m950 and the russian pp-19 bison helical magazine feeding system. I'm very curious if this might work with your hopper clip !!!

    ReplyDelete
  10. First off, this thing is gorgeous! I just have a couple questions: What size are your reducers and where might they be found state-side? I took a trip to the hardware store and couldn't match any of the available PVC in a nest at all like brass nesting, what are your recommendations? Are your load, trigger, and catch springs all locally sourced as well? Have you tried pairing this with absolver shells? Do you have any plans for making a pistol version? Fantastic work as always!

    ReplyDelete
  11. Is it possible to buy this blaster? It looks very nice! I really want to get it and use it in serious Nerf Wars!

    ReplyDelete
  12. William,

    Sorry, i don't make these blasters for sale... thats why i post up guides to share my design ideas so blaster builders can DIY their own versions. :)

    ReplyDelete
  13. Sam,

    As mentioned in the SGN-R3L overview, the PVC pipes and joints i use are all sourced locally using the SingaPlastics brand from Singapore (where i live).

    The SingaPlastics pipes have a series of sizes that can nest perfectly within each other, and that helps in building the PVC catch ring system.

    Its possible to build these blaster designs using non-nesting pipes too, just adapt your existing pipe dimensions to the design, perhaps combining the use of other pipe materials. Many DIY blaster builders in the States have built their own R-series blasters using USA-spec pipes too so its do-able. :)

    All the other parts i use are simply sourced from my local hardware stores. The springs i use are custom made to my specifications by local spring manufacturers.

    Absolver shells? If you are referring to the simple multi-barrelled "turrets" designed to fire all shots at once... then yes, i have made and used those with these blaster designs too, as the large plunger air volume works well in propelling multiple foam darts (and foam missiles too).

    As for a smaller pistol version, i've also made that variant a while back, its basically a shorter version with just a 3" draw. With a short barrel, its compact enough to holster. :)

    ReplyDelete
  14. That's excellent news! Now that I've confirmed that this is for all intensive purposes "the perfect blaster", I must build one. Now I just have to go through the acquisition of parts. This is going to be the interesting for the poor sales people...

    ReplyDelete
  15. Hiyah,
    Any tips on how to cut the 2 lines front and back of the tube evenly?

    ReplyDelete
  16. Maurice,

    Just measure and draw out the cut lines beforehand, then use a handsaw or dremel to steadily cut the pipes into shape.

    ReplyDelete
  17. So it takes some guess work to match the lines both sides hehe. By the way is there a difference in force between a 5" 14 kg spring and a 7" 14kg spring? I only have a 5" one at the moment anywhere I can source a 7" one?

    ReplyDelete
  18. Maurice,

    The 7" length 14kg load aftermarket spring i use has the same load specification, the main difference is just that its longer.

    You can try sourcing for springs at industrial spring manufacturers or spring supply shops around your area.

    ReplyDelete
  19. Hi SG Nerf, where do you get the nice looking plastic discs from? I tried it with a small washer, then realised there was a lot of rubber folding.

    ReplyDelete
  20. Maurice,

    The plastic discs in my example are just pieces from a model car display box. :)

    You can use any suitable material to make the discs too, just get a thick sheet of plastic or polycarbonate and cut out the discs.

    It's best to make the rigid discs large enough that they support a large area of the rubber disc, that would help to reduce the flex in the rubber seal. Also try using thicker and more rigid rubber discs too.

    ReplyDelete
  21. Thanks for the information so far! I think the piece of rubber I got is really thick, what's the recommended thickness would you say is good for the rubber disc? And I'm still sourcing for the plastic discs... no luck yet :(

    ReplyDelete
  22. Maurice,

    Try 3-4mm thickness rigid rubber sheets, they should be quite suitable for the plunger seal.

    ReplyDelete
  23. Hi SGNerf! Got linked from the nerf blog to this very interesting blaster site :) very nice stuff here! I understand you don't make them for sale, but I would very much like to make my own for a project during the holidays. Would it be possible for you to make tutorials on how to make these blasters for the laymen out there? Or are there already step by step instructionals? Thanks so much :) and by the way, besides nerf darts, is there any form of ammo that is, while harmless, fun to play with? Thanks!

    ReplyDelete
  24. reubenthesandwich,

    Well, i'm not going to create a step-by-step guide just for the basic cutting and fitting of together pipes and parts, no point repeating whats already been done in earlier designs by other builders.

    You should read up on the SNAP designs by Carbon, the +Bow design by CaptainSlug and Rainbow design by Stark etc... all the links to their guides are already highlighted at the beginning of this overview.

    Once you have an understanding of how all those various designs work, then you'll understand how my design is built and how it operates.

    As for foam ammo, other than foam darts, you can also make large foam missiles to use with these blasters, its quite fun in Nerf games, just swap the barrels to ones which fit the foam missiles. :)

    ReplyDelete
  25. tgb,

    Here are the info links for both clip variants.

    For hopper clips:
    http://nerfhaven.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19569

    For chopper clips:
    http://nerfhaven.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19999

    ReplyDelete
  26. Hi SG Nerf,

    Can I ask where do you buy your aftermarket springs from? (Preferably a address?) I'm also staying in SG =)

    ReplyDelete
  27. yeoxlcalvin,

    I custom make them through my own company, if you are keen i usually still have spares available for sale posted at the NerfSG forum trading section. Check there for more details.

    ReplyDelete
  28. I noticed that at the longer ranges there tends to be alot of drift to the left or right I was wondering (for those who value high accuracy) if you could include the aprox' drift in future tables

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Duce,

      The amount of "drift" or left/right shot deviation is very much dependent on the foam dart or stefan used.

      If stock Nerf streamlines are used, they will naturally swerve all over the place and scatter far apart... that's why modders and builders never use those foam darts due to their inconsistency and inaccuracy.

      On the other hand, if calibrated stefans that are designed for accuracy are used (i use custom foam + custom weighted silicone tips), then the shot deviation at max ranges is much less (my shots usually land quite consistently within a 5-6ft circle at 130-140ft ranges).

      Delete
  29. Could you make a short tuto for making the piston? it would be awesome since its one of the rare homemade pistons I found on Internet...

    Thanks!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. VinceTibo,

      As mentioned in my overview guide, the designs are based on and inspired by various other blaster build designs... its best to be familiar with them first. You can refer to the basic SNAP blaster plunger design by Carbon:

      http://nerfhaven.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=5767

      You can also see how the internals of my spring plungers look like in my SGN-R3L overview guide:

      http://diyblasters.blogspot.com/2010/11/sgn-r-series-blasters-r3l-review.html

      Delete
  30. Hey there SG Nerf!

    I know that these blasters are not for sale.
    I also know that some of the pieces are one-of-a-kind due to your company.
    I am also aware that these are based on Carbon's designs, which are found at nerf haven, a site I am familiar with.

    I'm not expecting anything from this, but I have to say that your DIY blog is so professional. So clean.

    Your blasters look far more lean and professional than any of the ones on nerf haven.

    As a small-time modder (my spectre is my baby), the president of an HvZ group here in Washington D.C, USA, and as someone who has never taken the initiative to create a homebrew blaster, I must say that IF you were to put up a comprehensive guide showing what you do, and how you do it differently, WHERE we can buy the materials (the darker PVC, for example. I also do not mind buying springs from your company, even if a tad expensive), I can assure you, your guide will be tier 1 even amongst the 'states, and everyone will love it.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Vahouzn,

      Thanks for the nice comments!

      The grey pipes i use are actually just common SingaPlastics brand PVC drainage pipes from the local plumbing/hardware shops in Singapore (where i live). I guess they just happen to be grey in color.

      The main reason why i make my designs based on those pipes is because i didn't want to have to keep ordering USA-spec pipes and couplers from overseas (they have different dimensions from local-spec pipes), its always much easier and cheaper to use locally sourced materials.

      The PAR55M overview is actually a guide for existing builders. I didn't post the basic building steps because Carbon (and many other builders) have already covered those steps many times in their numerous tutorials... this guide is designed for those who have already built a basic SNAP before, 'cos one look at the photos and existing builders will instantly understand how to build the PAR55M too. :)

      Delete
    2. http://nerfhaven.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=22144&st=0&p=310743&hl=r3l&fromsearch=1&#entry310743
      All you really need is to build the catch. Than you can do everything around that.

      Delete
  31. did you ever finish the clip fed one

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. silver saberman,

      I've made a few clip feed system designs but none fully tested or completed yet (been busy with other projects), but i might get back to working on them soon.

      Btw, you can check out the REVshot design by Louiec3 at the NerfRevolution forum, that's a good example of a clip fed custom blaster design. :)

      Delete
  32. SG, why haven't you posted here for almost a year? Many of us are still wondering about the pistol version you have previously mentioned.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. hunter5226,

      Well, i've been more focused on Nerf blaster mods over at my Mod Works site, so less work on DIY blaster designs for a while.

      I guess my current designs served me well in Nerf games so far, so didn't find much inspiration to do new designs, though i might explore some new ideas if i have the time.

      For my pistol versions, they are simply variants with narrower and shorter plunger tubes while still using the same catch ring and trigger system, basically just mixing and matching the parts around. :)

      Delete
  33. Is that a Dremel 7700 you are using? I just got one, and the cutting seems a bit... strange. Is it because I am using the cutting disc it came with, or should I get another one? Your cuts are really clean.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Anonymous,

      I'm using the Dremel 767-01 model with a cutting wheel that has serrated teeth which is designed for cutting wood/plastic/pvc materials.

      I think you are probably using the brownish-colored cutting discs? Those are meant to cut metal, not for cutting softer materials like pvc. :)

      Delete
  34. Ahhhhhh SGnerf... Youve created yet another centry gun, and this time around its pump action! Forgive me if this has been asked or posted, and dont make it just for me, but could you do a video showing you assembling this? I want to make my own design, but there are just somethings i cant put in question form, that i want to know. sorry if that makes no since.

    Now, about your gun! This thing is sexy! Is there any reason you used this trigger instead of a clothespin and nail trigger? I love the look of it, and im specifically and definatly impressed with the ranges. Its DOUBLE the Max ranges ive ever gotten with mods to NERF plastic blasters! Keep up the Good work, i have to imagine the awsomeness of being able to shoot sooooooo far away lol!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Stanas,

      Well, i've no plans to do a video of the parts assembly process 'cos my overview guide already shows how its assembled with photos in this guide.

      Note that my guide is meant for those who already have experience building the basic SNAP blaster designs by Carbon at the NerfHaven forum, so i'm not repeating all those basic steps.

      Its recommended that you practice making a basic SNAP blaster first, once you have gained experience with it, then progress on to my R-series design. You will be much more familiar with how everything is built.

      You can read about how my trigger and catch system is made (and the reasons for its design) at my R3L guide:

      http://diyblasters.blogspot.com/2010/11/sgn-r-series-blasters-r3l-review.html

      Delete
  35. Hi SG Nerf,
    Is it possible to buy one of these from you?
    Thanks!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Herpina,

      Sorry, i don't make any of these blasters for sale.

      Delete
  36. I am building a homemade nerf blaster that is essentially a scaled up plusbow. I have designed all the dimensions and all I need now is a plunger head design. Do you think the plunger head design here could be used in other homemade blasters?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Anonymous,

      Sure, it can work too... the concept of my plunger head design is basically just a rubber washer clamped between 2 rigid plastic plates. :)

      Though you should also consider making a "skirt seal" plunger head design instead, although it requires abit more work to make, it is based on an inverted coned washer design which helps to prevent the rubber seal from collapsing backwards during firing.

      Delete