This design is based on a 55mm ID plunger tube with 6" plunger draw. It uses a 7" length 14kg load aftermarket spring. The Catch Ring & Trigger mechanism is the same as in the R3L design.
The pump-action grip is a single piece custom shaped pipe section linked to the plunger rod via a series of priming slots.
SGN-PAR55M
Scale comparison between PAR55M & R3L...
The PAR55M has successfully completed field testing at Nerf games, operating flawlessly under actual game conditions.
Stay tuned for more details coming up soon! :)
Epic.
ReplyDeleteI'm curious to what you use as the plunger head and rod. Any suggestions?
ReplyDeleteThanh,
ReplyDeleteRead my SGN-R3L overview:
http://diyblasters.blogspot.com/2010/11/sgn-r-series-blasters-r3l-review.html
There are details there about the plunger head and rod materials that i use for the design.
I looked at my nerf arsenal trying to think of a good mod to do, and picked up my Spectre REV-5. I remembered being shot while cocking the blaster. I wondered if I would have won that game if I didn't have to cock the blaster. I then found my paintball gun, I noticed the Co2 tank screwed firmly inplace. The Co2 tank allowed the paintball gun to shoot semi-automatically. Using Co2 could launch a foam dart! Please tell me your thoughts and please consider making a dart blaster that functions like this.
ReplyDeleteShnowman,
ReplyDeleteWell, there are already air-powered blasters from Nerf and other brands that propel foam darts using compressed air in semi-auto and full-auto firing modes.
Here are some examples:
Nerf Magstrike (and Mods)
http://sgnerf.blogspot.com/2009/03/nerf-magstrike-as-10-review.html
http://modworks.blogspot.com/2009/08/nerf-magstrike-mod-enhanced-air.html
http://modworks.blogspot.com/2010/03/nerf-magstrike-mod-air-compressor.html
Nerf Rapid Fire 20
http://sgnerf.blogspot.com/2009/03/nerf-rapid-fire-20-review.html
Buzz Bee Tetra-Strike
http://sgtoyz.blogspot.com/2010/02/buzz-bee-tetra-strike-review.html
Nowadays there are Nerf blasters that don't even need to use compressed air tank systems, they run on motorized plunger systems:
Nerf Stampede (and Mods)
http://sgnerf.blogspot.com/2010/09/nerf-stampede-ecs-review.html
http://modworks.blogspot.com/2010/09/nerf-stampede-mod-guide.html
And also flywheel systems:
Nerf Barricade (and Mods)
http://sgnerf.blogspot.com/2010/09/nerf-barricade-rv-10-review.html
http://modworks.blogspot.com/2010/09/nerf-barricade-mod-guide.html
http://modworks.blogspot.com/2010/12/nerf-barricade-clip-conversion-mod.html
With so many existing blasters that can already fire in semi-auto and full-auto modes, there is no actual need for all the expensive C02 tank systems which need extra care to use.
In addition, if you are not aware, paintball equipment are controlled items in many countries. In many places, its illegal for individuals to own paintball equipment (like in Singapore where i live).
Put a two inch coupler on that then shove a bunch of your choice barrel matterial in a two inch pipe. Bam! Shotgun.
ReplyDeleteYeah, video please. :)
can you please give us more info on it, its sick
ReplyDeleteI noticed that in the first photo, the pump/handle overshell seems like it is directly bolted onto the t-joint in the second picture (or some varient)
ReplyDeleteDoes this mean that the overshell moves along with the pump itself, and is propelled forwards as well when fired?
Also, I'm planning to make one of these guns as well, no doubt inspired by your beautiful designs and photos. Another issue is, does the dart fit snugly inside the barrel itself?
Aries,
ReplyDeleteThe pump grip/shell is designed to be pulled back to prime the plunger rod, then it is moved forward to its original position to standby for firing. Same process as how most pump action systems work.
The pump grip does not stay in the back position then get propelled forward when fired, that would be a hazard for the user's supporting hand.
There are additional slots in the plunger rod itself so that the pump grip can be moved forward after priming, while the plunger rod remains at the back in catched position.
I will be posting up more information and a demo video about it soon.
The PAR55M unit shown in the photos above is displayed without a barrel, just the main unit. A separate barrel or ammo system is attached to the front pipe reducer to form the complete blaster system.
You can see an example of a barrel system attached to the SGN-R3L at its overview:
http://diyblasters.blogspot.com/2010/11/sgn-r-series-blasters-r3l-review.html
Hi, I've been looking at this design with great interest, and I'm considering making a similar design for myself, but before I do, have there been any disadvantages in using such a large plunger?
ReplyDeleteIn particular, I've noticed how the R3L with a 1 foot brass barrel gives you ranges of 140 feet PTG, while the R55L with a 2 foot brass barrel only gives you an additional 20 feet, which seems rather disappointing, especially given that the air volume is so much greater. Do you think that there's some kind of maximum limit before the ranges start decreasing for a given setup (i.e. everything else like the plunger length, spring strength and barrel length is identical except the plunger dia)?
W,
ReplyDeleteWell, i'm not a physicist or expert in physics, so i can only relate to my hands-on experience as a hobby enthusiast.
Builders and modders usually encounter "diminishing returns" as the performance gets higher, this is due to the various factors that affect how such blasters work.
With all other factors equal, simply doubling the air volume (or spring load) in a spring plunger would not instantly double the range, the improvements will be on a smaller percentage (and that value gets even less and less at each step of the improvement process).
Case in point, with my R55L and R3L... the R55L has around 3-4x larger air volume than the R3L, but effectively, the actual performance improvement is much less. I would need alot more air volume just to achieve additional improvement.
In addition, for effective use of larger air volumes, other parts will also need to be improved to match too. Even the foam darts have to be calibrated to match, as heavier ones will perform better in more powerful blasters.
Longer barrels are the main requirements to fully utilize barrel ratios to large plunger volume ratios. If the barrel is too short, the foam dart would exit the barrel (and start decelerating) even before the plunger completely compresses, which results in all the extra air volume and pressure being wasted.
A longer barrel (matched with larger volume plunger) will allow the foam dart to spend more time accelerating within the barrel to achieve faster velocity and consequently better range.
Then again, using a long barrel also has its disadvantages... not only is it cumbersome to actually use and carry around, from my experience, most PVC/plastic/brass barrels that are 2ft or more will tend to sag and bend so it becomes quite ineffective to use in Nerf games too. :)
So i guess its also more of a physical limit for the user on what is usable and practical in actual Nerf games.
do you have the links to th hopper clip and the chopper clip?
ReplyDelete